Stage 3 : Roncesvalles to Zubiri

We started our day at 7:45.  Very quickly we came across a small shop there we bought some fruit and yogurts.  The two utensil I packed on this trip were a pocket knife and spork.  We also packed Quinn's pocket knife but it got taken at the airport,  woops wrong bag. 

After a little bit we ran into some more of the crooked trees.  At one point the white trunks with bright green moss followed by a white highlight to the path was very neat looking.  So as your walking you really have to watch were you step.  Not only to avoid the sheep or horse poop, but also the slug like things or snails.  This guy was cruzing for a snail.

In the first village they really had a very clean architecture.  Everything was freshly painted looking and the colors were very crisp.  The most interesting feature was a water way that ran between the houses and the street.  Each house had a mini bridge to get to their door. One thing new I learned today is as you walk make sure you look behind you I found the view below of the little town very nice.

We crossed a few creeks today through out the day.  Each one had some different way to cross.  Next town wasn't that impressive but the church was sure different.  Between towns on this first section was a lot of grazing animals.  One pilgrim in front of us went up close to a fence to take a picture and a cow started to charge him.  The pilgram decided to back up.  Most of the aminals we saw had young with them so they are very protective.

Quinn was a little slower today so we had to stay entertained with the walking sticks and anything unique about the scenery.  Hes doing very well but likes to take lots of breaks.

The one thing I did notice more today were the flowers and the butterflies.  Along the way scattered everywhere are wild roses.  They are not big, more like the mini ones you can get.

We went thru about three towns today and finally had to go over a mountain to reach our destination.  This mountain had different trees, we are now have a mix of pines and oaks.  Looking at the book it said we had to climb 270m.  I think it was harder today because the feet and legs are getting tired.  I finally arrived at Zubiri at 2:15.

There was an old medieval bridge.  We checked into a private albergue, our room sleeps 8 and seems nice.  Two others in the room we have met before.  It's very cool how you continue to see the same people and here about there adventure for the day.  One gentleman from Texas told us about some sheep that decided to cross in front of him, the Ram that was I the group placed himself between him and the sheep.  

So after checking in we took the local sheeps cheese we had gotten, bought some bread, water, orange soda (I so needed sugar) and spanish omelet.  Then we went down to the river, layed out my shawl and sat on the banks enjoying the sun and eating a spanish snack.

Tomorrow we go to Pamplona.  It's about 25km and we to climb a total of 360m.  Allthough a sum of all the ups all these small hills add up by the end of the day.

Stage 2 : Orisson to Roncesvalles

So today I would classify my day as a walk in clouds with rain and mud to keep things adventurous.  We started off at 7:45, Quinn and Joe quickly left me behind.  I tend to stroll at a much slower pace.  So on I go on my own, no one around just walking the green hills in the fog.  Amazingly peaceful.

So far the track is thru rolling mountains but the rolls have a steep descent.  No trees just some short bushes. No stunning views but the clouds create this peaceful atmosphere.  As I walked I passed some wild horses, you could just see their silohetts thru the clouds.  

Next came a little oriental looking pilgrim,  he silently approached and passed with just a nod of his head.  A little later as I continue on I hear some gentle singing, here comes the Argentinian pilgrim.  He says he's listening to Tango, on he goes softly singing. It starts to rain a little more than the haze so far so on goes the jacket and backpack cover.  Up up the path goes, then a mobile stand appears.  It's the last stop in France, I get a snack and my passport stamped.  

Next I hit a fork and onto a dirt path I go. Well it would be dirt if it hadn't been raining for days.  The open area starts to end as some trees start to come around.  The trees are so crooked, they grow in all directions.  The climb isn't as steep and the canopy of trees in the rain has this mystical quality.  There is also alot of mud at this point.  I successfully picked a bad spot to step and got mud halfway to my knee.  Luckily my boots did their job, no wet feet. That would be miserable. I now know that I need to use my sticks like a blind guide poking questionable areas before I step.  There's a marker only 765 km to go.  

The trees start to go away as the path climbs higher, then at about 1400 meters I come out on a point, the rain is vertical due to the wind and suddenly out of the mist appears a small refuge.  Single room with a fire place, not lit but it's a moment out of the rain, so I took the opportunity and took a break and ate some lunch.  There was a bicycles from England in there with shorts and crocs for shoes.  He looked absolutely miserable.  

So back out I go almost to the peak, a bit of down and then another ascent.  Then all of a sudden the path says go over the cliff and down down it goes.  I started going down and then realized, hey that must have been the peak at 1485m.  Oh well wasn't much to see on a day like today, so down down the path goes.  

It's not a gentle down, it's more get me off this mountain steep.  To make it easier on my knees I feel like I'm doing squats on the way down as I try leaning back.  If it was covered with snow it be a black diamond or close to one.  Now it's really raining, the road is running with water but somehow I don't slip.  Some guys on mountain bikes came racing down the trail sliding as much as they peddled.

So made it to Roncesvalles and started looking for Joe.  Neither him nor Quinn were anywhere to be found.  So I go walk around and there they are, they had just walked up.  Aparently I missed a statue to go see and had passed them a long time ago.  Not sure how I missed it, oh wait visibility was zero, I should really wonder how they found it.  Anyway tonight we sleep like kings in a two bedroom apartment.  Well worth it after the wet and mud we were tracking.  

So first order of business clean, first Quinn's shoes.  Aparently he found every mud pile available on the mountain cause his shoes weighed about 10 pounds each.  I couldn't even get gem to run clear water, their shoes so I have up.  Next the pant legs and Quinn's socks.  Again wholly cow, these few things would clog a wash with mud, but this time we all contributed.  After much wet, scrub, rinsing I finally got it clear enough to use soap.  Then had to wash the stinky stuff, oh fun a full load of cloths in a sink!

We next walked around and looked at the church and other structures.  The place is actually real small, at one point it was a hospital for pilgrims I think.  Next it was dinner.  We had the communal pilgrims dinner which is great to meet fellow pilgrims.  We met a girl from Tennessee, one from Seattle, and a lady from Ireland.  After dinner off to the pilgrims mass.  It was very different from the one in Granon.  It was a full mass but still quick.  They did it all in spanish but had pilgrims come up and read certain readings also in another language.  English and not sure what the second was in.  After the mass the priest gave a tour of the church.  He asked for a volunteer to translate to English.  I must be feeling the charity of the camino cause I volunteered.  He said I did well but I had trouble with some things.  The church was built in the 13th century.  One interesting fact was that one bad winter snow came thru the arches all the way to a back wall and then froze and expanded bringing down the whole area.  They showed pictures from a recent year of snow I'd have to say 12 feet deep.  After the tour we talked to an English guy who showed a film about his journey.  He with the church is putting on an English emergence camp for the local spanish kids.  They invited Quinn, which we may do.  They will learn to tend sheep, make cheese, art, and other things over the course of a week.  Let's hope all works out this sounds like a great experience for Quinn and I'd like to volunteer too.

Tomorrow 20.7 km to Zubiri.  

Stage 1 : St Jean to Orisson

We started the morning around 9:30.  For breakfast we picked up some fresh pastries, yummy.  We also stopped at a store for some water and a sack lunch for later.  We started our journey via the scenic route.  Now it sounded like a good idea at the time and the adventure was fun but not as scenic. We climbed up near the citadel, walked along it and then took a wet, muddy and over grown stairway down to the river.

After reaching the river you walk along it and cross over an old roman bridge.  From here you start out of the city.  Very gradual grade along what I'd call a country road.  Quite a few houses and cars, but all this starts to go away as you stroll at a slight incline.  Finally the houses start to spread out and your left with the ringing of the sheep bells and the clicking of your walking sticks.  The path starts to get steep still on the road and then it changes to country path.  Now originally I didn't like walking on the street much but when we hit the path we also added a few pounds of mud to the bottoms of our shoes, making it a bit of a trek.   I was very thankful for my walking sticks because the incline at times felt like steps without the steps part.  

The dirt path turned into switch backs but still quite and incline.  At one point I was excited it looked like we were going to head around the peak, a little flat part would be a great break.  But then I noticed two sets of people above, no luck more switchbacks.  The views are amazing, everything is green with a lot of gentle hills leading to rocky peaks.  Right off the ledge were some huge Griffon Vultures, it was super neat to see them from above.  A dark brown with wing tips of more tan, huge wing span and the grace of gliding.  Luckily they were not above my head, otherwise they would be telling me I wasn't doing so hot and they were patiently waiting for my demise.  

It's very humid out so the pictures don't do it justice.  Just sitting here now outside listening to the sheep taking in the views, so glad we took it easy today.  By stopping we had an easy morning and about a 2 and a half hour hike and now about four hours to sit back and relax.

Once we arrived at the refuge we had a great soup, nice and warm.  Not that it's cold, but the humidity gets to me.  We picked our bunks, Quinn's excited about sleeping up top.  There is a big room of 5 bunk beds, two showers, two sinks and a toilet.  We took showers and then Quinn got to learn how to do laundry, ring it out and hang it up.  No sun but we are hoping the wind will dry it.

Dinner was great, not just because of the end less supply of wine, but I'm sure that did contribute.  Everyone sat in a family setting sharing a meal chatting away.  We had a vegetable broth, then baked port with a bean like almost soup dish. With flan to finish it off.  Now it's time for a nap.  Tomorrow off to Roncesvalles, 17.1 km approx with a 600m climb.

Just a note on some stuff that's working really well.  The new canon camera we got has a wifi connection you can connect to with your phone or tablet in my case and scroll thru and download whatever pictures you want.  I then use the google blogger app offline to write the entry, capturing some thoughts on my phone during the day.  Finally using out Tmobile phones which roam wonderfully I can post the blog.  It takes a bit to publish because the speeds are limited but I just start it and forget it. 

Stage 0 : getting to St Jean Pied de Port

Day started off with lots and lots of rain.  We drove over some beautiful mountain areas.  I always find tunnels cool and we went thru some real long ones.  Our destination was San Sabastian airport which is steps from the French border.  One note, I wouldn't do it this way again,  just a big pain it was. 

From the airport we walked about 2 km to the train station from there we took a local train to Hendaye.  Then in Hendaye we had to wait 3 hours for the next train.  I forgot that weekend times are different than during the week, so choices are limited.  When we got to Bayonne in France we had a 30 minute wait to catch the bus.  Aparently here is a train too but it doesn't always run.  Seems strange but so be it.  When the bus arrived it was a mad dash to find a spot for your luggage.  We lucked out got ours in and got seats.  Great bus ride up to Saint Jean, green mountain is with houses scattered along the way.  When we arrived at St Jean it started to por so out with all the rain gear to try and not be smoking wet after our first day.  Good news is everything seemed to have worked as advertised.  

We checked into our hotel.  Joe booked it cause he doesn't really want to stay in hostels.  Whats funny is, the apartment is nice but all the bed sheets came in a plastic bag and you had to make your own bed.  That's a first for me, this is going to be interesting.

After check-in we wandered around the town walls and got our pilgims passports.  We will have to get it stamped each day as we go.  Tomorrow a short walk 8km but its all uphill with a gain of 700m.  I'm not going to do the math but it should be a nice slow start.

Here are a few pictures from around St. Jean.

Day 4 - Grañón

So we made it to Granon.  This is were I had a great time as a kid and where my mom is from.  This is a view from the highest point in town.  Some day I will retire here at least for the summers.  Forget the winter, spring is even too cold for this desert dweller.  Here's a picture I one of it's few streets and the main camino entrance.

Granon has a pilgrims alberque.  This is where the walkers can stay.  The person that runs it is called a hospilero.  They have two here one of them is from Michigan.  Nice guy but sounds like long days.  Said they work 18 hour days.  He walked all the way to Rome.  It sounds amazing how easy it is to walk across Europe.  Guess maybe that's a motivation to stay in shape so when I retire I can walk around Europe.  Image that, walking for months with only a few outfits.  It really just doesn't seem possible but you really don't have to have so many cloths, as long as you do laundry everyday. Yah that just sounds crazy, but I guess ill see soon.

We saw this thing today in the square.  It gives a new name to mobile banking.  It has a teller and two ATMs inside.  They closed the local branch so now they provide mobile services.

We talked to a few pilgrims.  Guess they ran into some thunderstorms that involved a lot of hail.  Doesn't sound like things went very easy for them.  We also saw a bunch in mass.  They put on a half hour,  wish they would change Sunday to be so efficient,  mass each day.  The ones we saw looked very wary, some even hobbling.  But others looked fine, should take bets on what state we'll be I. When we get here.  One guy took 11 days others 9.

So how bout those sheep.  Never know what you run into walking around here.  Better watch where you step, it's fresh!

Day 1 - Argandoña

So walking doesn't start until next Sunday.  Until that point we can get over the jet lag and get situated.  Today we took the drive from Madrid to Vitoria.  Nice easy drive with a few bulls along the way.  Always an impressive site and wonder if there is a marketing case study.  I think at this time the brand is lost but my dad I know sure loves the brandy.

Not much else interesting today, went for a walk.  Get my practice in.  Not sure if other places in the US have as many hiking, biking, walking trails but here they have turned a lot of old train areas into trails. You can literally go just about anywhere on foot without much worry of cars.  This old train station was real neat looking and the walk was great. Of course we are freezing our arses off, it was in the low 50s today.  But luckily no rain and it isn't suppose to last.

One last picture for no reason other than it was cute.  Check out this kids area with homemade mushroom and snail.  Tomorrow off to find some local sims for our phones and hit a grocery store.

Day 0 - Spain 2014

So our 2014 adventure starts tomorrow.  I wanted to catalog the stuff i have gathered for this walk.  As much as for me to remember in the future as for others that may find it useful.  We fortunately have family to visit so can take normal cloths and a suitcase as well.  So we are kinda packing for two trips, this is just the walking stuff.  Here is also a map of the walk.  The second dot after Logrono is near where the rest of the family will stay while I finish.

First off the pack.  So i wanted to buy a smaller pack but after buying all the other stuff i decided to stick with the one i had.  This is an Osprey Talon 44.  Bigger than i think i need but it weighs so little not a big deal.  Our 11 year old son is taking the Osprey Talon 33, yellow to his dismay.  Now not depicted in the picture would be a pair of Teva sandals and Ahnu hiking boots.  I actually really love Merrell's but after attempting to break them in and them messing up my arch in a weird way i got the Ahnu's.  Now they are high hiking boots but they don't seem too weighty and I've used them hiking around town with no problem so we will see.  Quinn has Merrell's and Teva's as well.

So onto the picture.  So starting on the left side top.  I picked up a light ALPS Razor sleeping bag, it is basically a liner sleeping bag but we will be inside so don't think being cold will be an issue.  Below that is a down pillow.  Creature comforts.  Next a hat, went with a light cute had from Kuhl.  By the way REI now loves me.  Eagle creek purse / hip bag combo.  Back up top rain jacket, pants and cover for the backpack.  Next, gloves, hat, bandana, toiletries, green things a towel.  Third column: a Prana dress, three pairs of smart wool socks with 2 REI liners.  Forth column: long sleeve runners shirt and a long sleeve smart wool base layer (i refuse to be cold).  Below them two wicking Leota T-shirts by Merrell.  I bought one and tried it out at a service project pulling weeds.  In Arizona I must add, it really passed the test of keeping the sweat wicked away.  Same goes for the underwear in the last column.  Now of course i had to find a way to justify in my mind why i would pay so much for underwear.  But they are suppose to last we will see.  Anyway final column:  two convertible pants by Prana (love these have had the style for years), sports bras(One Nike, one Moving Comforts) and ExOfficio underwear.  Finally the book by John Brierley.  I'm going to take the big one but if weigh was an issue i think the skinny one would be fine.

So all this packs real small.  I bought some compression sacks to separate and add extra water proof.  At the moment the weather for June 1st the start of our walk is 60 degrees F with 90% chance of rain.   Let the fun begin.

The Way of Saint James ( El Camino de Santiago)

Let the planning begin!  I have decided that summer 2014 I will walk El Camino.  

Step 1.  Decide to do it.  Not a tough decision.  I have spent almost every two years of my life visiting my moms home town of Granon in Spain.  This town happens to be one third of the way to Santiago de Compostela via El Camino.  It also has one of the highest rated albergues of el camino.  So seeing and hearing about the experience has always been fascinating.  So now it will be my turn to tell the stories and get the sore feet.

Step 2.  Commit to doing it, deciding to do it is not enough.  There is work and life and it is 30 days of walking if all goes well.  So planning worse case 5 to 6 weeks of walking plus two weeks to get there and two weeks to recover so looking at 10 weeks.  Other considerations could the family do part of it and walking or biking.  Really biking was never much of a choice for me, although my knee would be much happier I don't see getting as much out of it doing it that way.  In my own way I love to socialize, my favorite part is hearing other people's stories about family or personal experiences.  So now back to the 10 weeks.  I created a formal leave request for work which has been approved.

So decision complete, will walk it starting around june 11th, Quinn and Joe will join me for the first 10 days and i will do it at my leisure, no rushing.  Anyone interested in joining let me know, but be warned my plan is to take a few day breaks at strategic times. 

First goal is get to Granon before San Juan the 24th of June. So off to look at options for the first part.