Stage 2 : Orisson to Roncesvalles

So today I would classify my day as a walk in clouds with rain and mud to keep things adventurous.  We started off at 7:45, Quinn and Joe quickly left me behind.  I tend to stroll at a much slower pace.  So on I go on my own, no one around just walking the green hills in the fog.  Amazingly peaceful.

So far the track is thru rolling mountains but the rolls have a steep descent.  No trees just some short bushes. No stunning views but the clouds create this peaceful atmosphere.  As I walked I passed some wild horses, you could just see their silohetts thru the clouds.  

Next came a little oriental looking pilgrim,  he silently approached and passed with just a nod of his head.  A little later as I continue on I hear some gentle singing, here comes the Argentinian pilgrim.  He says he's listening to Tango, on he goes softly singing. It starts to rain a little more than the haze so far so on goes the jacket and backpack cover.  Up up the path goes, then a mobile stand appears.  It's the last stop in France, I get a snack and my passport stamped.  

Next I hit a fork and onto a dirt path I go. Well it would be dirt if it hadn't been raining for days.  The open area starts to end as some trees start to come around.  The trees are so crooked, they grow in all directions.  The climb isn't as steep and the canopy of trees in the rain has this mystical quality.  There is also alot of mud at this point.  I successfully picked a bad spot to step and got mud halfway to my knee.  Luckily my boots did their job, no wet feet. That would be miserable. I now know that I need to use my sticks like a blind guide poking questionable areas before I step.  There's a marker only 765 km to go.  

The trees start to go away as the path climbs higher, then at about 1400 meters I come out on a point, the rain is vertical due to the wind and suddenly out of the mist appears a small refuge.  Single room with a fire place, not lit but it's a moment out of the rain, so I took the opportunity and took a break and ate some lunch.  There was a bicycles from England in there with shorts and crocs for shoes.  He looked absolutely miserable.  

So back out I go almost to the peak, a bit of down and then another ascent.  Then all of a sudden the path says go over the cliff and down down it goes.  I started going down and then realized, hey that must have been the peak at 1485m.  Oh well wasn't much to see on a day like today, so down down the path goes.  

It's not a gentle down, it's more get me off this mountain steep.  To make it easier on my knees I feel like I'm doing squats on the way down as I try leaning back.  If it was covered with snow it be a black diamond or close to one.  Now it's really raining, the road is running with water but somehow I don't slip.  Some guys on mountain bikes came racing down the trail sliding as much as they peddled.

So made it to Roncesvalles and started looking for Joe.  Neither him nor Quinn were anywhere to be found.  So I go walk around and there they are, they had just walked up.  Aparently I missed a statue to go see and had passed them a long time ago.  Not sure how I missed it, oh wait visibility was zero, I should really wonder how they found it.  Anyway tonight we sleep like kings in a two bedroom apartment.  Well worth it after the wet and mud we were tracking.  

So first order of business clean, first Quinn's shoes.  Aparently he found every mud pile available on the mountain cause his shoes weighed about 10 pounds each.  I couldn't even get gem to run clear water, their shoes so I have up.  Next the pant legs and Quinn's socks.  Again wholly cow, these few things would clog a wash with mud, but this time we all contributed.  After much wet, scrub, rinsing I finally got it clear enough to use soap.  Then had to wash the stinky stuff, oh fun a full load of cloths in a sink!

We next walked around and looked at the church and other structures.  The place is actually real small, at one point it was a hospital for pilgrims I think.  Next it was dinner.  We had the communal pilgrims dinner which is great to meet fellow pilgrims.  We met a girl from Tennessee, one from Seattle, and a lady from Ireland.  After dinner off to the pilgrims mass.  It was very different from the one in Granon.  It was a full mass but still quick.  They did it all in spanish but had pilgrims come up and read certain readings also in another language.  English and not sure what the second was in.  After the mass the priest gave a tour of the church.  He asked for a volunteer to translate to English.  I must be feeling the charity of the camino cause I volunteered.  He said I did well but I had trouble with some things.  The church was built in the 13th century.  One interesting fact was that one bad winter snow came thru the arches all the way to a back wall and then froze and expanded bringing down the whole area.  They showed pictures from a recent year of snow I'd have to say 12 feet deep.  After the tour we talked to an English guy who showed a film about his journey.  He with the church is putting on an English emergence camp for the local spanish kids.  They invited Quinn, which we may do.  They will learn to tend sheep, make cheese, art, and other things over the course of a week.  Let's hope all works out this sounds like a great experience for Quinn and I'd like to volunteer too.

Tomorrow 20.7 km to Zubiri.